Canine Einstein

When starting out with positive reinforcement training, make sure your reward is better than the behavior you’re trying to extinguish. Most dogs won’t work for the reward if what they’re doing is better, because what they’re doing is often self-reinforcing or way more interesting. Would you work hard for a Honda if you knew you could have a Lamborghini much easier? Probably not.

You’re not going to extinguish most behaviors with a piece of kibble or dog biscuit unless your dog is extremely food motivated. Most dogs are motivated by food, but just as many are also motivated by playing with other dogs, chasing anything that is moving quickly, or sniffing every inch of ground. All of these things can make good reinforcers.

Even if you have an awesome reward, most people start out way too close to the objective. For instance, if you were trying to teach your dog to stop chasing bunnies, you wouldn’t want to put them in a field full of bunnies and expect a few pieces of jerky to do the trick. You would first start out with one bunny, at a distance, maybe even with a barrier inbetween. And you would use their favorite reward — but only for that particular behavior extinction.

Always think of dog training logically; if you were in the dog’s shoes, would you do any different? So next time you train, don’t use Hondas and don’t throw them in a field of bunnies. Use Lamborghinis and start off in your living room! And remember…ALWAYS be patient!

Poo eating in dogs, medically known as Coprophagia, is not only disgusting to humans, but it can be a health hazard to everyone who comes in contact with the offending dog(s). Discouraging it can be difficult, but if you’re vigilant and committed, it can be stopped.

First, rule out any medical problems that your dog may have by taking him to the vet. Have the whole works done if you have to. If your vet can’t find anything wrong with them that may be contributing to the Coprophagia and can be treated with medicine, proceed to step #2.

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Boogie is such a sweetie and loves going for a walk. He stays right at my side and walks beautifully until he encounters another dog, then he goes into nutso mode! he jumps, yelps, barks, pulls, generally behaves as if he wants to attack the newcomer, no matter how big the other dog is. I’ve put a training lead on him, tried a training zapper (the kind that makes the high pitch noise only a dog hears)tried distracting him with a treat, picking him up and forcing him to look away from the approaching dog, squirting him with a water bottle…nothing seems to deter him. He’s in full attack mode and I can’t seem to get him under control. I worry that he’s going to provoke another dog that’s going to take the invitation. (I do carry pepper spray to protect Boogie and his brother Mojo from other dogs, just in case.)

– Renee & Boogie

ARF! Boogie & Renee,

Don’t feel bad. Boogie’s problem is a common one, and is easily fixed with a little bit of patience and time! It doesn’t sound like he’s aggressive, but Mom and I recommend taking him to a qualified behavorist in your area to have his temperament assessed, just in case! Because you’re right to be worried…a bigger dog could eat him for lunch if they wanted! And no one wants that.

It sounds like he’s going through one of two things; one thing could be what is called “little man syndrome” which occurs in a lot of small dogs, because they feel they have something to prove by acting big and tough. That, or he REALLY wants to play with the other dog and is lunging/barking because he’s frustrated that he can’t get there fast enough. I used to be the same way!

Here is what Mom did with me. First, she taught me the “watch me” command by putting a treat up to her eyes and saying “watch me” at the same time. When I made eye contact, she gave me the treat! After a while, she could say “watch me” and I would look at her face. This would help out a lot on walks because when we saw a dog, before I could escalate, she would say “watch me” or put me in a sit and keep my attention with treats until the dog was gone. If I was good, I got tasty chicken, hot dog pieces, liver, or anything else that was meaty and smelly to me! Kibble or dog biscuits weren’t tasty enough to keep my attention, so make sure you use something super yummy.

If Boogie doesn’t respond to treats, you can take his favorite toy or play his favorite game, or whatever he likes. If you can’t keep his attention, just say “No” in a low, firm tone and walk in the other direction until he stops lunging/barking. Don’t try to “bribe” him with treats because this could accidentally reinforce the bad behavior. Just wait him out for calm behaviors and then praise calmly. And remember…patience is key to ALL dog training.

Mom says it may be a good idea to take him to doggy daycare a couple days a week to help get him socialized and comfortable around other dogs of all shapes and sizes. It will give him the oppurtunity to play with dogs and is also a good outlet for energy. You may find you enjoy it too!

I would not recommend using the “aversive” techniques you mentioned though. An aversive is an upleasant stimulus that “averts” the situation, but could cause negative side effects, or even escalate his aggressive behavior. The reason for this is because he might start associating the aversive with the sight of another dog, causing him to act aggressively because he knows something bad is coming! Or he could even redirect his frusration on to you. Ouch!

Just remember to stay positive and use his very favorite reward to keep him from acting badly. And work on the “watch me” command so that Boogie has to look at you instead of the other dog. Don’t feel bad or lose hope if Boogie doesn’t get it right away, because once he does, the transformation will be quick!

One last thing Mom and I would recommend is to pick up a copy of “Click To Calm” by Emma Parsons which deals directly with dog-aggressive dogs and will be a valuable help to you and Boogie. Mom says it’s very good!

Good luck! Woof!

Yours Drooly,
Emily

This is slightly off topic, but I thought it was too cute not to share! I was browsing Hulu when this video popped up. I clicked on it and nearly had tears in my eyes from laughter! Those poor puppies! : )

Don't drill me with repetition! Keep things fun and spontaneous!

Always Keep Training Sessions Short

Just like humans, dogs can easily become bored with repetition. Many people believe dog training involves 30-60 minutes of drilling the dog until the desired behavior is achieved, but it is actually proven that three or four 5-10 minute sessions throughout the day are better for teaching new behaviors. Keeping sessions under 10 minutes creates less time for the dog to become bored, especially with young active dogs or puppies.

Short training sessions are also closer to real life situations — most people only give commands for a few minutes a day and then move on. The more often you practice a behavior, the more it will become a part of your dog’s normal routine, and will become second nature to you. It helps ease frustration too!