Archive for the 'Training' Category

Item of the Week: Red Barn Chicken + Liver Roll

Red Barn’s liver roll is the perfect high value reward for dealing with difficult behaviors. With ingredients like beef lung, chicken liver and heart, it contains a strong meaty taste and scent that really invigorate a dog’s senses! It can be cut into whatever size chunk you need for training, or even fed as a meal. Your dog will love it.

Rating: ***** (5 stars)
For beginners? Yes, as it is a good high value reward that many dogs work for.

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Canine Einstein on September 12th 2009 in Nutrition, Other - Related, Training

Arf! Training Tip of the Week

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When starting out with positive reinforcement training, make sure your reward is better than the behavior you’re trying to extinguish. Most dogs won’t work for the reward if what they’re doing is better, because what they’re doing is often self-reinforcing or way more interesting. Would you work hard for a Honda if you knew you could have a Lamborghini much easier? Probably not.

You’re not going to extinguish most behaviors with a piece of kibble or dog biscuit unless your dog is extremely food motivated. Most dogs are motivated by food, but just as many are also motivated by playing with other dogs, chasing anything that is moving quickly, or sniffing every inch of ground. All of these things can make good reinforcers.

Even if you have an awesome reward, most people start out way too close to the objective. For instance, if you were trying to teach your dog to stop chasing bunnies, you wouldn’t want to put them in a field full of bunnies and expect a few pieces of jerky to do the trick. You would first start out with one bunny, at a distance, maybe even with a barrier inbetween. And you would use their favorite reward — but only for that particular behavior extinction.

Always think of dog training logically; if you were in the dog’s shoes, would you do any different? So next time you train, don’t use Hondas and don’t throw them in a field of bunnies. Use Lamborghinis and start off in your living room! And remember…ALWAYS be patient!

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Canine Einstein on September 10th 2009 in Training

Potty Mouth: How to Discourage Poo Eating

Two Dogs... Thinking of Eating Poo?

Poo eating in dogs, medically known as Coprophagia, is not only disgusting to humans, but it can be a health hazard to everyone who comes in contact with the offending dog(s). Discouraging it can be difficult, but if you’re vigilant and committed, it can be stopped.

First, rule out any medical problems that your dog may have by taking him to the vet. Have the whole works done if you have to. If your vet can’t find anything wrong with them that may be contributing to the Coprophagia and can be treated with medicine, proceed to step #2.

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Canine Einstein on September 8th 2009 in Nutrition, Training

No Bones About It

Did You Know?

Did you know that most dogs don’t stop chewing after they reach adulthood? It’s a common myth that only puppies chew, as adult dogs actually do enjoy chewing on things, too. Chewing helps exercise the jaw muscles, clean the teeth, and is a good outlet of stress for dogs. If your dog likes to chew, you should provide dog-safe chew toys for them at all times to discourage chewing on your furniture or shoes!

Bully sticks, recreational raw bones (not cooked), Kongs and synthetic tough bones such as Nylabones are all good toys to encourage healthy chewing in your dog, as Emily and Blaze demonstrate below!

Emily Bone

Blaze Bone

Have a happy and safe Labor Day!

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Canine Einstein on September 7th 2009 in Nutrition, Training

Ask Emily: Boogie the Papillon

Boogie is such a sweetie and loves going for a walk. He stays right at my side and walks beautifully until he encounters another dog, then he goes into nutso mode! he jumps, yelps, barks, pulls, generally behaves as if he wants to attack the newcomer, no matter how big the other dog is. I’ve put a training lead on him, tried a training zapper (the kind that makes the high pitch noise only a dog hears)tried distracting him with a treat, picking him up and forcing him to look away from the approaching dog, squirting him with a water bottle…nothing seems to deter him. He’s in full attack mode and I can’t seem to get him under control. I worry that he’s going to provoke another dog that’s going to take the invitation. (I do carry pepper spray to protect Boogie and his brother Mojo from other dogs, just in case.)

– Renee & Boogie

ARF! Boogie & Renee,

Don’t feel bad. Boogie’s problem is a common one, and is easily fixed with a little bit of patience and time! It doesn’t sound like he’s aggressive, but Mom and I recommend taking him to a qualified behavorist in your area to have his temperament assessed, just in case! Because you’re right to be worried…a bigger dog could eat him for lunch if they wanted! And no one wants that.

It sounds like he’s going through one of two things; one thing could be what is called “little man syndrome” which occurs in a lot of small dogs, because they feel they have something to prove by acting big and tough. That, or he REALLY wants to play with the other dog and is lunging/barking because he’s frustrated that he can’t get there fast enough. I used to be the same way!

Here is what Mom did with me. First, she taught me the “watch me” command by putting a treat up to her eyes and saying “watch me” at the same time. When I made eye contact, she gave me the treat! After a while, she could say “watch me” and I would look at her face. This would help out a lot on walks because when we saw a dog, before I could escalate, she would say “watch me” or put me in a sit and keep my attention with treats until the dog was gone. If I was good, I got tasty chicken, hot dog pieces, liver, or anything else that was meaty and smelly to me! Kibble or dog biscuits weren’t tasty enough to keep my attention, so make sure you use something super yummy.

If Boogie doesn’t respond to treats, you can take his favorite toy or play his favorite game, or whatever he likes. If you can’t keep his attention, just say “No” in a low, firm tone and walk in the other direction until he stops lunging/barking. Don’t try to “bribe” him with treats because this could accidentally reinforce the bad behavior. Just wait him out for calm behaviors and then praise calmly. And remember…patience is key to ALL dog training.

Mom says it may be a good idea to take him to doggy daycare a couple days a week to help get him socialized and comfortable around other dogs of all shapes and sizes. It will give him the oppurtunity to play with dogs and is also a good outlet for energy. You may find you enjoy it too!

I would not recommend using the “aversive” techniques you mentioned though. An aversive is an upleasant stimulus that “averts” the situation, but could cause negative side effects, or even escalate his aggressive behavior. The reason for this is because he might start associating the aversive with the sight of another dog, causing him to act aggressively because he knows something bad is coming! Or he could even redirect his frusration on to you. Ouch!

Just remember to stay positive and use his very favorite reward to keep him from acting badly. And work on the “watch me” command so that Boogie has to look at you instead of the other dog. Don’t feel bad or lose hope if Boogie doesn’t get it right away, because once he does, the transformation will be quick!

One last thing Mom and I would recommend is to pick up a copy of “Click To Calm” by Emma Parsons which deals directly with dog-aggressive dogs and will be a valuable help to you and Boogie. Mom says it’s very good!

Good luck! Woof!

Yours Drooly,
Emily

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Canine Einstein on September 6th 2009 in Training

Introducing “Ask Emily!”

Do you have a dog training question? Need help with your new pup or older, more established dog? Not sure where to start training? Now you can Ask Emily the Jack Russell your question — just click the link at the top of the page and fill out the form!

And don’t forget to enter Canine Einstein’s Dog of the Month, going on right now!

Have a great Labor Day weekend!

Nimmers
“I can haz Ur questions nao?”

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Canine Einstein on September 5th 2009 in Other - Related, Training

Item of the Week: Complete Idiot’s Guide to R+ Dog Training

Canine Einstein’s Item of the Week:

Pamela Dennison offers a nicely formatted, easy-to-understand guide for beginners and experienced trainers alike with her revised edition of The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Positive Dog Training. In the book, she covers everything from priming the clicker to handling aggressive dogs, including tips and step-by-step instructions. This is the first R+ book I ever read, and it not only taught me a lot but also helped me immensely when understanding my dog.

Click the link above to order your copy today!

For more available shop items, click the “Shop” link at the top right hand corner of the page.

Rating: ***** (5 stars)
For beginners? Yes

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Canine Einstein on September 4th 2009 in Other - Related, Training

Arf! Training Tip of the Week

Don't drill me with repetition! Keep things fun and spontaneous!

Don't drill me with repetition! Keep things fun and spontaneous!

Always Keep Training Sessions Short

Just like humans, dogs can easily become bored with repetition. Many people believe dog training involves 30-60 minutes of drilling the dog until the desired behavior is achieved, but it is actually proven that three or four 5-10 minute sessions throughout the day are better for teaching new behaviors. Keeping sessions under 10 minutes creates less time for the dog to become bored, especially with young active dogs or puppies.

Short training sessions are also closer to real life situations — most people only give commands for a few minutes a day and then move on. The more often you practice a behavior, the more it will become a part of your dog’s normal routine, and will become second nature to you. It helps ease frustration too!

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Canine Einstein on September 3rd 2009 in Other - Related, Training

How To Teach A Dog Loose Leash Walking

One of the biggest complaints dog owners have is the lack of control they have with their dog on walks. The process soon becomes a vicious circle; the dog requires more exercise due to its energy, but because of its high energy on walks, is never exercised! So what do you do?

It’s best to begin leash training inside the home. Most people begin outside where the dog instantly becomes unfocused because of all the sounds, sights and most importantly, the smells. Starting in the neutrality of the home causes a lot less frustration and distraction.

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A dog walking happily without forging ahead of his owner.

A dog walking happily without forging ahead of his owner.

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Canine Einstein on September 2nd 2009 in Training

The Dog Whisperer: Canine Guru or Doggie Dope?

With the advent of his show The Dog Whisperer, which first aired in 2004 on the National Geographic Channel, the world of dog training, behavior and psychology was brought to the limelight. Cesar is adored by fans worldwide and has even trained dogs belonging to celebrities such as Will and Jada Pinkett-Smith and rapper Redman. He is certainly a celebrity in his own right.

But are his methods effective? Yes. Are they feasible? Possibly. Are they harmless and beneficial to the dog, as he so often explains? Certainly not.

The whole “dominance” nonsense.
Cesar’s biggest explanation for the reason that dogs do the things they do is dominance. Whether the dog is aggressive, hyper-active or even painfully shy, the dog has somehow “gained power” and “dominance” over its owner through it’s behavior.

The original studies of dominance theory took place in the 1940s and centered around wolves during hunting and meal time. The wolves’ displays during these times were very ritualistic and did not cause any actual harm to each other, and also reinforced pack ranking.

A popular myth is that dominant wolves and dogs “alpha roll” subordinate animals to get a point across. Cesar has flipped or pinned numerous dogs on his program. These so-called alpha rolls have only escalated the problem, causing the dog to fight or even bite Cesar, who has kept them pinned until they stopped kicking and screaming. He calls this “submitting”. This is actually called “learned helplessness”. The dog is giving up because it has no other options to rescue itself from what it perceives as physical harm and biting/fighting no longer work.

Dominant wolves and dogs do not forcibly pin or flip subordinate animals. The subordinate animals willingly present their undersides on their own accord to appease the more dominant animal. A wolf would only pin another wolf in order to kill or seriously injure it, so imagine what you’re saying to your dog by displaying this type of behavior.

Exercise for controlling behavior.
Strenuous exercise is certainly necessary for active, intelligent breeds, such as German Shepherds and Pit Bulls, but Cesar pushes the exercise regimine to the extreme. In fact, that is the first line of his personal aphorism; “exercise, discipline, affection”. Exercise in many cases does help dogs control behaviors, but training and redirection should always come first.

Cesar Millan’s methods of correction.
He calls his method of controlling aggressive or otherwise out of control behavior “whispering”, but other than his persistant “Tsst!” sounds, there is nothing soft about what he does. He forces dogs past their comfort zone and then gives them painful leash corrections, alpha rolls and kicks to the abdomen to control their behavior. He’s even hung a few dogs in the air (think back to the Korean Jindo episode) and has held dogs on their hind feet by their throats (Buddy the Pit bull). His methods are nothing short of cruel.

Cesar floods dogs.
Rather than slowly desensitizing fear biting dogs to an unpleasant stimulus, he instead forces them to face the issue head on, known as “flooding”. Not only is this dangerous to the human performing it (he doesn’t put warnings in his show for nothing), but it’s terrifying to the dog and often causes an extremely depressed, shut down dog.

Final verdict.
Americans are obsessed with fast solutions and are drawn in by media hype and attention. With his charismatic personality, Cesar has no problem convincing his fans that his methods are safe and humane. But before you deliver a well executed kick to your dog’s flank, or choke your dog with a pinch collar, test it out on yourself first — you may well change your mind.

This post sponsored by: On Talking Terms With Dogs (Calming Signals) by Turid Rugaas at Amazon.com.

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Canine Einstein on August 31st 2009 in Other - Related, Training